(W140): Guia de compra (inglês)
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(W140): Guia de compra (inglês)
Olha o que encontrei . O original está em alemão, mas me parece bem interessante.
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TEC / Buyer's Guide Series 140Last updated: 09/29/2014 15:18 clock, bb Buying guides for 140 seriesJörg Heineck, as of August 27, 2011Content:
1. IntroductionA 140 W it should be! But which one? First, once some basic things. The W 140 is a Mercedes, where everything was realized, which (in many ways today) at the time was technically feasible (and is) and somehow seemed to make sense. He thus represents the tip and the culmination of philosophy is: "Building the most comfortable, best and safest car in the world (almost) without regard to cost, effort, size, weight, etc." The driving experience makes almost "addicted", and the comfort is unparalleled. In short, you do not want to get out of the car. Comfort / Safety seekers, art enthusiasts and frequent travelers who are looking for a reliable long-distance vehicle, refer to the W 140 the right vehicle. However, the many technical details also mean that the W 140 is a highly complex vehicle. He is by no means merely a "tank" as possibly giving the impression from the outside. This vehicle has several weaknesses. Pull almost always expensive repairs and it is by no means "indestructible". There are many technical details, can also go much broken (What does not exist can not go wrong.). Even Ersthandexemplare with fewer than 100,000 miles and gapless checkbook of DC can be significant (easy to very many unscheduled many thousand EURO) draw repairs.The maintenance costs are total in the luxury sector. With proper care and treatment, however, it is good for hundreds of thousands of kilometers. Vehicles and individual parts can be seen and noted often not at 100,000 kilometers more or less. Especially for this vehicle but there is a risk to be quickly captured by the emotions and to lose sight of hard facts. Each vehicle is also critical that appears interesting !!! to be examined. This, however later. As a "rule of thumb" can be said that you once the vehicle purchase price only for short-term incidental repairs as a reserve should have in the account at least. In younger specimens usually are relatively high in price, it is rather less. In older specimens, especially with larger engine, can - especially for (large) engine, gearbox repairs and the like -.. Quickly a three- to four-fold or in extreme cases, five times the original purchase price will be necessary. Those who do not can not or will steer clear of this vehicle! These expenses were calculated as approximate cost of repairs at DC. Screw itself or a good independent garage can reduce this cost, of course. But here caution. Many repairs are easy to perform very complex and various parts expensive. I see myself at this point in the duty to warn W-140 prospects from damage and unpleasant (financial) surprises. This is not intended to mean that I want to talk about the car bad. It is high at a high level, and I am of the view that it is the most exclusive and fascinating Mercedes ever built. Nevertheless, exclusivity - second hand - always a price, and can make the dream quickly becomes a nightmare. The W 140 was in production times the vehicle for "well-off" people. Not infrequently, a chauffeur took care permanently to the car. Now the vehicles are considerably older and require even more "attention".It can thus be easily guessed which permanent effort on a W-140 owners can play or will, especially if you want to go and get the car longer. Meanwhile, there are usually only two types of cars that you can also get:
2. The choice of engine - which is best?Type overview:
6-cylinder:The 300 SE (L) and S 320 (L) can be viewed as a solid "base engine" for the W 140. The motor is strong enough for long rod and robust. In terms of quiet running it counts due to design (in-line six cylinder) of the quietest Mercedes engines. ("The turbine-like run of the Mercedes 6-cylinder ...") but no miracles should be expected here When consumption. The W 140 weigh about 2 tons. The 320 is therefore hard to pass under about 12-13 liters. Sometimes the 320s need even more than the 8-cylinder, because he was more "effort" must. The 300 SE (L) and S 320 (L) is probably the most widely W 140th The 300 SE 2.8 and S 280 frequently conducts a "shadow" side. Actually wrongly. He is just under 200 hp while the nominal weakest petrol engine in the W 140, if the demand for performance but not in the foreground, it is because of the close structural relationship to the 320's also very reliable, and anything else running quieter than the 320's! The 280s and 320s are also the only the W 140 that had to get from the factory with (5-speed) transmission. All other W 140, come standard with automatic (4-speed or 5-speed). In short, the one who will appreciate the calm pace, a find here. Usage: Slightly less than the 320's. 8-cylinder:The 400 SE (L) and S 420 (L) opens the world of 8-cylinder (Quote: "Here is the world of 8- and 12-cylinder and the kingdom are soft switching circuit breaker begins ..."). The engine power and torque allow significantly better and above all more superior driving performance. The engine sound is "8-cylinder-like". The step 500 SE (L) and S 500 (L) is relatively low. Both engines (engine M119: 420 and 500) are almost (on site) identical up to capacity, power and torque. As approximate consumption values from the field for the 500 can apply: Highway: 11.9 to 12.9 l, l 19-21 city, highway 16.5 l (good mix) - "sharp" driving on the highway can also easily consumption have well over 20 l result. The 420 is here, even if only slightly, consume less. A special feature is said to 420: I've heard of problems with the 420 engine / vehicle / electrical system. However, this should absolutely not be generalized. When the engine is absolutely fine, and otherwise show no signs at the electrics, you can of course also access here without hesitation. The M 119 engine also is among connoisseurs as almost "indestructible". 12-cylinder:The 600 marked its 12-cylinders, the tip of the W 140. Performance is of course with about 59 kW (80 hp) and 100 Nm of torque more - compared to the 500 - outstanding. This is evident especially in the elasticity / "pull-through". Furthermore, it should be noted that the 600 comes standard with a very good quality. This means that he is thus to obtain relatively low and the large equipment. The engine sound alone will not release one. It is the whisper of the "twin-turbine" with a very low tone (eg in the infrasonic range). The maintenance costs are, of course, on where the 8-cylinder models. Particular mention should be insurance classification (insurance), Usage: if they are mentioned more and possible engine repairs average about 16.5 liters, city, about 21 l. However, almost all other parts are identical to the 8-cylinder specimens (and often also all other copies), and thus the same price. The 12-cylinder is by no means "vulnerable" or less durable than the V 8. Again, it comes down to how he was treated and maintained. Diesel:The 350cc turbo diesel can be considered somewhat weak for the 140s. However, the biggest drawback is its engine. Here many copies have already had problems with the cylinder head. The reason is of course the timing chain between the first and second cylinder, and then the course of the oil passages between the timing chain and the cylinder. Here the oil flow through "is hochbiegende seals / tongues" quickly deteriorated, then Specimen and thus leads expensive cylinder head damage. The 300 Turbo Diesel is more power and torque, and above all, he does not have the aforementioned problems of the 350cc turbo diesel. Therefore, in the diesel choice should fall on the 300 Turbo Diesel. The consumption of diesel is also loosely at 12 l on average. Saving miracles are unlikely to happen again.Overall, a 6-cylinder diesel shall charge a 6-cylinder petrol engine in the W 140 only at very high performance, (the tax is per 100 cc twice as high, tend to have higher liability for the diesel etc.) ie from about 80,000 km per year , Here, however, is not considered that the diesel possibly a run on vegetable oil (up vegetable oil) or old vegetable oil (Alt up vegetable oil) can be considered. Thus, if one can refuel at Aldi or even the "Greeks around the corner" or the next chip shop (Alt up vegetable oil) needs to be filtered), one can formulate the bill, if a diesel worthwhile for themselves all over again. Special motors:Of AMG and. Brabus 600 V12, among other things, there were 6.9 and 7.3 liter displacement expanded and generally with revised engine. The power it varies up to 428 kW (582 hp). The engines of these two producers / refiners are basically as durable as the serial version. With petrol consumption results in moderate riding possibly even a small advantage over the standard machine! The 500 V8 was drilled by the manufacturers above to approximately 6.0 liters and increased performance.The power up to 300 kW (408 hp). In this case, however (not only motor brakes u. Ä. Also if any) special parts / spare parts should be clear then that in many areas are necessary, which are considerably more expensive than their production counterparts. From AMG, Brabus and Lorinser there were no performance increase other (lower) chassis adjustments, optics etc. These packages are of high quality, TÜV-enabled and should also be entered. Thus: If "Tuning" then this "premium manufacturer". Unfortunately, the disadvantages listed in the paragraph "market" of "tuning" apply (probably with the exception of the engine tuning previously described) here. Clearly be said here that the automatic transmission can not cope with the increased benefits in the long run (In most cases, they have been matched only by another spring package and modified Modulierdruck.). Automatic transmission, which must be subject after 60,000 kilometers is one complete revision or completely replaced, are the rule rather than the exception. This is also true for the current 12-cylinder Mercedes engines - M 275 - which in the W 221, 600 and 240 W, Maybach, in conjunction with a 5-speed automatic transmission that can be used. Again, higher torque from the automatic transmission can sustain in the long term without further ado. For completeness, nor is a 16-cylinder 800! based on the M-120 engine (V12 600) mentioned. This is however not progressed beyond the trial period for testing purposes. (It was feared at that time the "Ökoschelte", which was exposed to the 600.) Gear list:05/95 and 09/95 was changed from hydraulically controlled 4-speed automatic transmission on the electronically controlled 5-speed automatic transmission in the 12-cylinders and 8 cylinders. The 6-cylinder petrol engine (280 and 320) had previously optional 4-speed or 5-speed automatic transmission, however, hydraulically controlled in the old version. The electronically controlled and capable of "learning" - it adapts the shift characteristics of the driving style - 5-speed automatic transmission (722.6) reduces consumption and slightly improves the performance.Unfortunately, it is also generally more susceptible than the hydraulically controlled 4-speed (resp. Even 5-speed for the 280s and 320s) automatic transmission. In a very quiet and appropriate switching behavior (including last switching point when braking) as well as problem loading speed step is to look here. In almost all cases, this electronically controlled automatic transmission (722.6) already gets about 100 'km the known problems (bucking), which require a complete transmission overhaul or an AT machines. The "older" hydraulically controlled machines (722.3 and 722.4) have aged frequent problems with the reverse gear. Is this in only after a certain time, wear in the gear already exists. (A piston must travel an increasing way.) Better it is not. Eventually, the reverse gear is no longer in. Here, as the problems with the 722.6-machines almost always helps in the long run only one gear complete overhaul or possibly an AT machine. 280s and 320s: From 06/1996 electronically controlled 5-speed automatic transmission 300 Turbo Diesel: From the beginning with electronically controlled 5-speed automatic transmission. Flue gas / tax classification:The W 140 has a factory in general, the emission standard EURO 1. From 1997 model year, some models EURO 2, from model year 1998, some models even D3. Retrofitting of EURO 1 vehicles may be allowed to EURO 2 (currently) best. Insurance:The insurance classification of 140s models is not to be classed as affordable, unless you have a special rate can conclude with a specialized insurer. Under normal conditions, the tariff is in the upper price range. The relevant to the insurance key figures are as follows: Manufacturer key (HSN): 0708 Type code (TSN): 446 The classification (as of 02.03.2008 - akutell under [Tens de ter uma conta e sessão iniciada para poderes visualizar este link] of the various models is as follows: Limousine (Diesel)
Limousine (petrol)
Coupe (petrol)
Body styles:Normal version and Limousine long wheelbase (L-version): A difference is noted in driving behavior through the long / longer wheelbase. Length running! The comfort increases slightly. However, the long-wheelbase version also has more "light ship movements." The difference exactly 10 cm (outer length 5113 mm or 5213 mm) are almost exclusively benefits the rear passengers. Thus, the choice is ultimately a question of the use and of personal taste. Coupe: There is a rule. Coupes are bought with the heart. The place is of course lower back. However, this should not obscure the overall dimensions: length 5065 mm, width 1912 mm (1886 mm limousine without a mirror, mirror with about 2200 mm caution when garage door.!) The coupes were manufactured in small quantities and are often more workable. For additional differences to arise sedan on the front doors. Services:The standard equipment of the W 140 is relatively well: double glazing, heated rear window, four electric windows with automatic acceleration and deceleration control, heated windshield washer system (including the storage space for the wiper blades.!), Comfortable locking (with windows and sunroof), central locking - from the inside locked -, Power Steering, ABS (double-ABS), Fog lights / lamp, fog lamp, pneumatic headlight range control, warning buzzer for non Off lights and low beam, exit lights on all doors, interior light and reading light for front passenger, Interior light, rear, Driver's seat: adjustment of the seat cushion depth , dipsticks back (to 04/95), automatically extending handle when opening the trunk lid (protected by a flap in the retracted state), mechanically adjustable longitudinally steering, automatic Gurtgeometrieanpassung front (in sitting position), different strengths Gurtrückholfedern (belt should while driving be felt as little as possible), seat belt / belt force limiters, head restraints in the rear pneumatic folding, brake pad wear indicator, Airbag for driver and front passenger (some models the first years of production do not!), electret dust filter for ventilation, outside temperature display, lamp failure check for all exterior lights, electrically adjustable, foldable and heated door mirrors (left and right), leather steering wheel. From 03/1994 - first major facelift - Version II of the W 140: The appearance is merely trimmed visually slimmer, partly because of public criticism of this car. The external dimensions remain the same. From model year 1997 - second major facelift - Version III of the W 140: BAS (Brake Assist), Xenon low beam (optional), side airbags in the front doors, third brake light on the parcel shelf. Useful additional features: automatic - harmonizes better with the car and the philosophy of relaxed sliding -, climate control (air conditioning did not exist) - Several models of the first years of production have not -, cruise control (usually if automatic included), automatically dimming interior mirror, distance sensors (from 04/1995 available), heating (comfort profit causes, especially in winter less engine wear), heat-insulating glass, ESP (until 05/1995 -Modelljahr 1996 - available), third brake light on the parcel shelf (ex works from version III - 1997 model year), side indicators (ex works from version III - model year 1997), sunroof (glass sunroof, it causes a nice bright interior). 3. The test points in the 140s - what to look for?Important Note: This checklist / weak point list is not exhaustive! It will only show as much as possible, special W 140th weaknesses. It is highly recommended, a (general) used car checklist, as it is reprinted in used car magazines o. Ä., In addition to use. Furthermore, the vehicle should be possibly assessed by an independent expert Kfz.. Furthermore, a TÜV-used car advice is recommended. Body / corrosion:Rust deposits are found exist in the area of the trunk lock as well as in the light strip. The rear lights and the light band (between the rear lights) must be checked for water ingress. One recognizes a flooding of discoloration or mold. The light band then shimmers pink, or you can clearly see Moos approaches and black mold. To rusting may occur in the sill area (also to be seen from outside the sill panel made of plastic). For a "rough check" should at least remove the door sill trims (These are merely "festgeklipst" and they can be removed carefully upwards). Another weak point is the attachment points of the side planking / "Sacco boards" and under the side planking. Through hardened rubber door gaskets may also result in rust approaches through scrapes and damage the painted surfaces. Gaps: the gaps between the body parts must be exactly the same size / width. Uneven column usually show up - incorrectly - Fixed crash damage. When W 140, among others pay particular attention to the gaps of the trunk lid when it is closed. Are these - especially at the corners top, rear - exactly the same size?Small / minute deviations here may possibly be related to the setting of the trunk lid and corrected. Here are greater deviations (especially between left and right) should be particularly wary. In case of accident damage to the tail often sits the fuel filler flap no longer exactly in its recess. Wind noise when the first model years, if not already monitored by TLC (free time) reworked: There were mounted other seals. Newer seals have, inter alia tissue patches in the upper front corner of the door seal (rear doors) on). First model years: Possibly schlackernde mirrors (usually within the grace fixed). Do the mirrors? Folding in and mechanics, cables and motors view, (a mirror with electric adjustment and memory costs complete with mounting and painting and almost VAT EUR 1.000, -.). The door tethers are also among their vulnerabilities. Crack it open / close the doors, they are due soon.Failure to correct the defect, it may happen that the door is blocked, ie, if the door is open, you can not close! Parts cost about EUR 15, - plus tax, but there is nothing Fummeligeres than to break them built for eternity doors. (Costs about EUR 250, - per door) If the door stopper unpainted (brass colored), it has already been replaced once. Often replaced door rebound straps "repainted" with a paint pen, but this is purely cosmetic concern. Headlights are "blind" (flooding). The headlight reflector can be corroded and need to be replaced.Rockfall can made the lens of the headlight (outer, exposed to the wind Plexiglas) "blind" have (possibly regard to driving style). Rear windows in execution laminated glass (windshield is of course standard laminated safety glass (LSG)):edges of the rear and / or front wheel begin to become milky. Rear windows in standard execution in ESG (toughened) are not affected. The frosted glass effect is caused by the ingress of moisture between the bonded film layers of the laminated glass. The frosted glass effect is not a cosmetic fault! The process continues slowly but steadily and gradually to the uselessness of the disc. If you want to fix this first cosmetic error, comes to an expensive replacement (approximately> EUR 2.000, -) of the rear window or windscreen not around (note this good "ground handling" eighth, otherwise it rusts from below). Preventive recommend a subsequent treatment of the seals with a suitable sealant to prevent the infiltration of moisture largely. If the white milk glass effect already begun, they can at least slow down this way or with silicone oil spreading further. The rear window heating with heating wires is essential to check (especially with ESG, the heating wires lie with laminated between the panes and are not palpable from the outside).Chance of almost invisible heating wires are damaged, causing the heater may fail. Here, however, is still some time to nada for a heating shows / can show. An indication of high miles versions can be wiper scratches or stone chips in the windshield. The year of production of discs: Corresponds it with age / construction and condition / mileage of the vehicle? If necessary, the discs have been otherwise ever be replaced. Discoverable the production year is almost every disc on a small number at the bottom of the bottom line of the "stamp", which is located in the lower corner of the / all slices. (Eg "... 6" stands for 1996 "... 2" is 1992, etc.). Broken sunroof lift bridge and / or elevation angle: To notice / hear the faint clicking sound, particularly at the rear of the sunroof - Attention (!): The sunroof can possibly work anyway. The repair is quite expensive: about EUR 700, - to 800, - with mounting. Show tarry flakes / grease in the area of the sliding roof, the insulation mat has dissolved in the roof due to heat. The residues are difficult to remove. If necessary, Heaven for the installation of a new mat must be dismantled. Suspension / Steering / Brakes:Are your tires evenly expired? If not, do so on a disguised track and / or an adjusted camber close. Can be measured in this case necessarily toe and camber. Here, a view also to the suspension and steering linkage and stabilizers should be paid - by the great weight of 140s (especially V8 and V12), these are often knocked out. Broken Springs are not uncommon. Caution with lowered W 140 W or 140 with wide tires.The chassis should have been adjusted, if necessary, by a lowering (or possibly even wide tires etc.) resurveyed u.. Worn ball joints on the front suspension are increasingly becoming the problem areas of the Series 140. They show up often been dramatically illustrated by squeaking or creaking noises during compression and by rough operation or thumping noises. Depressing the two wings thus part of the standard program for vehicle inspection. Contrary to popular opinion, or even a lack of knowledge of many MB workshops, using the specified special tool, the ball joints can also be individually switched on and squeezed. rubber buffer and bearings of the chassis: This may have hardened or worn - a possible (further) reason for turbulent ride or thumping noises. Also the (driving) power steering pump often falls on through leakage. This is (in some cases) already recognized by Ölverschmierungen the housing. In any case, a close look should be thrown into the balance container. The pump makes noise when cold ("whine")? There may be no sound from the pump even with ice-cold vehicle. Then check the oil level, but only when the engine is hot! If that's all right then - right - new pump (approximately EUR 700, - - with built-in), the pump is broken! (!) Warning, at full steering lock to stop the servo pump noises are normal (valve opening - noise about "Tschiiiiiiii" - to clearly hear the inside). Power Steering Fluid Loss: The W 140 has a recirculating ball steering with power assistance. From 8-cylinder 400 and 420 is a parameter power steering / - servo support as standard. Power assistance is speed dependent, ie easy to steer when parking, and at high speed, the power assist is reduced. The applied steering force is higher. An overhaul of the steering gear (for oil leaks) is often possible.Unfortunately, the DC itself many shops do not dare to. It requires a lot of experience and ability. A new steering gear normally costs about EUR 2.000, - (installation, the installation is very "tricky"). The parking brake often attracts unevenly: It is said that one of Mercedes as the star. Within certain tolerances, it is harmless (if TÜV report, brake tester). By their design high vehicle weight, the brakes need a high braking force. Wear can - depending on driving style - lead to the following: Durchgeglühte discs (frequent, strong braking at high speed or "rapid" driving downhill) or imbalance in the wheels due to deformed discs. This should only original discs or top manufacturers and their top products (ABE) Be used. ADS (Adaptive damping system): failure? Then, the light is always burning in the switch to the shock absorber symbol. Or leaks in the (shock) dampers. Expensive! Stand plates by high vehicle weight - is for vehicles that have (very) long stood as a rule can not stop; one of the ways for vibrations in the steering specifically between 70-100 km / h. The W 140 is very "sensitive to tires or imbalance". That is, small imbalances or damage in the chassis make usually noticeable. It should only high quality discs (ABE), high-quality tires, etc. are used.Imbalances can lead to long term (consequential) damages to other chassis components. As a tip for the W 140 can apply unique Michelin tires that clearly state the plates! reduce, in the sum of all properties of excellent quality and minimal Nachwuchtaufwand require (best ever in relighting from summer to Winder wheels [and vice versa] the force control). Rims, wheels and tires: damage by eg curb Contact - break-outs on the rim edges.. Are other wheel / tire combinations entered? Be careful with cheap rims - perhaps despite ABE etc. breakage! The weight of the W 140 is to be considered separately when the lifting capacities. Corresponds to the date of production of tires (on the tire sidewall / -side usually lined oval: eg 2502 for 25 calendar week 2002) with the mileage and condition of the vehicle? Are there separate winter tires (on wheels)? Separately registered? What is the condition here? Tread depth min. 4 mm particularly for winter tires! Is there possibly for the other wheels, corresponding studs? Again, production date of the winter tire note (see above)! Is there a wheel lock and the key to this? Spare wheel: checkpoints so Engine / Exhaust:Loss of motor oil - oil pressure sender: The sender is relatively inexpensive. Installation is possibly consuming. General loss of oil / leaks on the engine ? Among other things, the cylinder head gasket / cylinder head gaskets are (in V engines), valve cover gasket (s), and to check the tightness of the timing chain case. Oil pressure in Mercedes (Series 140): When accelerating, he must quickly to "3" go (observed in very warm engine !! - After about 30 kilometers driven until the oil is very hot here is very clear that the W 140 no! vehicle for short distances is). When standing at the intersection with gear engaged (D), foot on brake and quite warm engine (see above) must not fall below "1", the oil pressure. "1.2" is very "healthy". Hydraulic tappets: Defective hydraulic tappets (between the valve and camshaft) do usually indicated by Klickergeräusche. These need to be faster with increasing speed. When they are broken, are mostly small oil passages in the cylinder head or a generally inadequate oil supply to the engine fault. : Timing chain / Runners of the timing chain elongation should be the starting approximately 100,000 kilometers measured periodically (especially V8 and V12); possibly even as low as about 140,000 kilometers crack - major engine damage. However, the slides are still more likely the problem. Which may in time by the "hot oil baths" are porous and break. Then the chain sprint over! Condition of the cable in the engine compartment? Insulation brittle? Particularly V 8 and V 12 are affected due to increased heat in the engine compartment. This can lead to significant motor problems and damage resulting from short circuits. The only remedy is a new engine harness here. Cost of which is, depending on the construction, quite different. From about Year 1995 it becomes more expensive because of static high voltage distribution was changed (with individual coils for each cylinder). The engine harness then also includes - with ignition coils - individual. Fan (stock) worn? - Before then mostly clear, loud noises. Normal is a "Whhhuuuuuuuuu" when the fans start in stand to cool the engine. Milled, droning, rattling, clattering or whining noises tell of damage. Vehicles that have been long or short journeys were often have defective exhaust and / or exhaust manifold / seals. This is caused by debris from the sulfur content contained in petrol: in every engine and the exhaust duct is formed during cooling condensate, which gradually evaporates during operation. If the motor is driven not warm, the sulfur content in the exhaust gas reacts with the condensed water to an acid, which significantly engages the exhaust, and thus favors corrosion. 600: The exhaust manifold (double) can rattle (wear) - "nässelnde" noise. Climate:Pressure and tightness of the automatic air conditioning should be checked. Is especially the evaporator leak, a change is very complex and expensive! The whole dash / center console has been - about 24 hours.Work, costs about EUR 2800, - to 3.500, -. Attention, low-cost supplier "for half" break here often plastic brackets from! Result: It creaks and crunches in the dashboard). The automatic climate control should be well cool (she spits in the summer due to the permanent control over zero Celsius Gard figuratively ice cubes) not smell musty and in the interior. Check the complete lighting (Klimaautomatik-) control unit; Relamping z. T. consuming. All wheels, buttons and displays must be illuminated. Fan regulator automatic air conditioning on ordinary air output of the fan inside to check. With the highest fan speed automatic air conditioning must produce a veritable storm in the car - otherwise, 90% of the fan controller defective (Part approximately EUR 250, - without installation). Transmission / driveline:Can be inserted easily and smoothly all ranges ("D" and "R")? When you stand on the brakes, is when you insert the drive position a certain light (!) "Tense" in normal vehicle, but no jerk, yelp, etc. Very sensitive feel and hear (radio off in the vehicle inspection)! The transmission can jerking when shifting (especially 722.6-machine: electronically controlled 5-speed automatic transmission at the terminating point, eg when approaching an intersection.). This is - as any shift shock - not in order. 600: always check critically From about 180.000km, even when hydraulically controlled 4-speed automatic transmission. Heat conducting under the engine / transmission: These are "weggegammelt" literally in some vehicles.The result, for example, is a (permanent) overheating of the transmission with consequent damage to the transmission. Rear differential: It should be tight and not smeared with oil. Check shaft seals! Electrical:Battery / battery low voltage (default ESP, BAS, etc.) check. On the occasion that should battery / battery (in the trunk!) are reviewed. Are there any signs of corrosion - inter alia by leaking battery acid?(Take two successive sheets) Sheet metal compounds check for rust on the side. The battery terminals should not be corroded - poor electrical wiring! WARNING In the field of battery / battery not smoke! Risk of explosion! Horn / airbag springs wear out and klickern. Older versions: ASR . Among other sensors (each approximately EUR 200, -) may be faulty V8 and V12actuator of the throttle . defective (very expensive) - often the cause of eg ASR failure. Electrical details such as windows (separate control unit). Are all the windows? The windows, especially at the rear, are the high weight of the double disc with the time overwhelmed mechanically(unfortunately cable on plastic roller). In general, all electrical equipment features must be checked for proper operation. Distance sensors: failure: sensors always show such as an obstacle to or do not work. If the sensors are absolutely clean? If so, often there is a defect (cost about EUR 150, - per sensor without installation; these are supplied in body color). Automatically dimming interior mirror? Check the function of the flashlight (get darker green and has to return "enttönen")! The articulation of the interior mirror is often worn in all interior mirror variants. Radio / Navi / Hi-Fi: The reception should be good. Otherwise, an antenna cable is not connected properly or the antennas (from the first model refinement (MOPF) 03/1994 they are integrated into the rear bumper [FM] and in the rear window [MW / LW]) is defective. Additional amplifiers can the battery / additional battery power or have loaded. For a possible presence of a navigation system (current) software available? Does the Navi, it can detect the location? Is the radio the CODE or CODE card with serial number available? Caution etc even with possibly added later Radios .: Stolen phones and devices with "dubious ownership" are not uncommon. If for any possible CD changer (in the trunk), a unit card available? Pneumatics:Pneumatic seat cushion / seatback with and without multi-contour / orthopedic: - Full inflate and see if the pressure is maintained and no re-inflation / possible is necessary. After the test drive and the lift again taste the pneumatic seat cushions (see above). Are they tight or had to be pumped in air? Power locking: Check for leaks or total failure, failure of the (negative pressure) pump and / or connections - expensive! Functional test: pump overrun inside with the doors closed to hear (shortly after the closing): Close door - pump about 2-3-4- (5 too much) seconds - then interval (8-12 seconds) and pump again about 2-3-4- (5 actually too much) seconds, the pump will run more often or longer something leaking - possiblyvery expensive! There are two (pneumatic) pumps: . A "general pneumatic" (seat cushion, headlight range control, central locking, fold-down head restraints in the rear, dipsticks in the rear fenders, extendable rear deck grip, etc.) This is located right under the rear seat , the second is for the power closing / Türzuziehhilfe. Except for the 600 Power locking was 140 Special equipment on all W. Thus it is not present in all vehicles. The pneumatic pump for the power closing is located in the trunk directly behind the back of the rear seat left. Papers / (Legal information):Chassis no. (VIN No. - vehicle identification number) check (with letter) Compare -> front passenger seat on the crossmember under the carpet - a small piece of carpet can be folded up - and possibly the engine compartment. LetterChassis no .: WDB 140 ... exhaust keys: EURO 1, EURO 2 or D3? (Key) table at the ADAC and the Internet; Owner, number, address, date of birth: If necessary, Ask here also because Mileage. Service book:Note sheet at the back of the chassis number! Caution may have been glued later! MB addresses / workshop addresses - understand - and possibly ask there. Evidence for maintenance and repair work can deliver, check km stalls. Inspections by display (model year 1998) made or fixed mileage? For model year 1998, Asyst system (indicated by the trapezoidal odometer display in speedometer), read the number of services made possible with Star Diagnosis. Conclusions about mileage; Caution with good equipment can also be manipulated this number! TÜV / DEKRA - HU: Date Due? Last TÜV report? Defects? AU: Date Due? Last AU-test report available? If necessary, TÜV / DEKRA (pre-owned) Opinion: VIN? EZ (Registered)? Accident damage? Mileage?Damages? Special features? Purchase agreement: Check whether the seller is the legal owner is! If he can not submit a letter, usually is something wrong (z. B. vehicle is owned by a leasing company) .Gewährleistung? A year or two years (shortened to one year is allowed if necessary)? Guarantee (which, scope, provider of the guarantee, warranty conditions)? Mileage guaranteed? Previous owner? Listed damages (these are considered to be known, the seller can not be taken recourse because of this)? Respect to TÜV / DEKRA certificate? Key (number and type)? Caution: If all keys are present, the insurance company may possibly regulating collision damage reject). If necessary,coordinate with insurance. Accident damage must be mentioned.Mitverkauftes accessories should also be included in the purchase agreement (winter wheels, navigation software, etc.). Possible (!) evidence Mileage: Maintenance Note on the A-pillar down in the driver's door? List in the engine compartment for inspections? If necessary,Another note for. Coolant, brake fluid, etc.? Turn signal lever condition? Tapped? Tapped the steering wheel? - High-performance km !; Pedal pad worn out?Especially brake pedal right? Wiper grooves on the windshield? 4. General information and costsWell-preserved specimens are of course more rare. Many of the vehicles go abroad, where the W 140 from the beginning, not the acceptance had problems as in Germany, his country of origin. These are, above all, the states of the former Soviet Union, the Middle East and the Arab countries. Here tears, one is really good to items (particularly S 500 L and S 600 L). Considerably rarer and harder to get the long-wheelbase versions. Coupes were built in smaller numbers, but due to the prehistory (often second or third car) to generally lower mileages. AMG and Brabus versions are very rare to get. Here's to check especially if they have not been moved to "sporty". It is always a complete history / past life of the vehicle to ensure (checkbook, workshop bills, vehicle registration - Attention, new EU vehicle documents, TÜV reports, etc.). Can be documented, do not put your hands on the vehicle - if something is not completely and - verifiable (!). It does not have to be specifically mentioned that manipulated odometer readings are not uncommon on this vehicle. A "grandfather clock" or a pure short-haul vehicle can cause major problems quickly. In general, a W 140 no car to drive maybe about 2 km to shopping. The wear here would be quite large (cylinder head gasket, etc.). "Maintenance Guide" says usually also little off: It just means that the most necessary work required for operational safety / maintenance (hopefully - some workshops including some DC workshops sluts here.) Were made.Some of the work that should be done regularly on the normal scope of inspection addition: Gearbox oil change with transformer oil and filter (every 60 'km) - was a time not prescribed by DC; aforementioned verification / if necessary. Change the timing chain when changing with guide rails and chain tensioners, regular maintenance of air conditioning, all about 100,000 to 150,000 km change the oil in the rear differential, coolant every 3 years, and change the brake fluid every 2 years are obligatory in any case. The most important thing to have in the acquisition time is really the right vehicle to the desired state found. A time window of six to twelve months is not uncommon. Purchases from abroad (absence of an appropriate offer domestic) involve special risks and costs often (including import duties, possibly expensive retrofits, separate TÜVAbnahmen etc.). The vehicle is to be visited in person, in this case always on site. The longest journey is cheaper than a bad buy. During transport (especially overseas) everything is often the vehicle "removed" (stolen), which is dismountable.Not infrequently comes to little more than a body shell. Considerable precautions shall be followed to meet. General Caution is advised when "tuned" W 140. Wide tires lead to increased wear of / some suspension parts and can cause the wheel arches grinding of the tires. Lowering can "hit soft" the appropriate chassis shots. Spacers may consider additional problems. These effects also apply to registered TÜV "tuning measures" - conversions. Improper / not registered Participate conversions can often lead to loss of insurance coverage and have life-threatening consequences. Furthermore, such modifications also allow rule conclusions on the driving style of the owner. Above average follow-up costs are inevitable. A used car warranty is basically not wrong, but the warranty conditions and the warranty provider must be examined closely. With the prices of each should be their own image (Internet markets, and our distributors classic vehicles, etc.). The W 140 Used as very limited to only get low - as mentioned earlier. The significant repair costs and general entertainment / follow-up costs, however, always be taken into account. It is often better to spend more on the purchase (from a reputable seller), as afterwards - to - to accept high costs / repairs in purchasing. 5. ConclusionThe W 140 marks the claim of Mercedes to build the best luxury sedan in the world, in an impressive way like no other S-Class. This is also called attention to the close structural relationship to the W 240 (Maybach). The car must "be closely monitored" technically, including also to avoid costly damages and costs. Who now beyond even invested in the regular maintenance will have a Mercedes, which is to offer longevity and enjoyment barely. Which W 140 for whom? A 6-cylinder petrol engine (280, 300/320) is already gorgeous and relaxed. The V8 (400/420 and 500) are the sovereign motorization, and technophile, performance oriented and / or lovers of special attacks V12 600. The diesel friend comes with the smooth-running 300 S Turbo Diesel at his own expense, and also lovers of special services can be operated with AMG and Brabus versions and engine performance improvements (especially when V 12). Jörg Heineck |
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Re: (W140): Guia de compra (inglês)
Obrigado Osvaldo! Boa matéria!
AEP- Usuário Platina
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Re: (W140): Guia de compra (inglês)
excelente dica, amigo.
será que há algo similar para os w202?
será que há algo similar para os w202?
cimerio- Usuário Iniciante
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Re: (W140): Guia de compra (inglês)
Deve ter sim. Eu só vi este:
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[Tens de ter uma conta e sessão iniciada para poderes visualizar este link]
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